Roller bottle case (essential oils)
Over the past two years, I’ve become quite the believer and collector of essential oils. But traveling shorter distances with undiluted bottles was not ideal. I bought some pre-diluted and already filled roller bottles, and also mixed some up myself. I typically always have my headache oil with me in my purse. Two weekends ago, I discovered the headache oil had been laying sideways in a big pocket for God only knows how long, and it leaked a little. It wasn’t a horrible mess, but it was enough that the inside of my purse smells a bit minty…which really isn’t too bad!
I needed something to hold some bottles together, and keep them upright. I found some adorable fabric cases online but my
cheap creative side wanted to see what I could find online for crochet patterns. In a basic image search, there were only a few, and they all went to an Etsy shop that no longer sold them. I looked through the Ravelry database with a lot of key words and still didn’t see anything that would work.
Queue the birth of a new pattern! I’m now able to place these together in a pocket of my purse or bag, in an upright position, to avoid leaky bottles!
This pattern holds three essential oil roller bottles, and the flap can be customized. If you use my pattern to sell items, I would love and appreciate a link back or credit to my facebook fan page. You are not permimtted to copy, redistribute, or sell my pattern. Pattern is written in US terms.
Crocheted roller bottle case:
- G hook
- light worsted weight yarn (the blue pictured above is Red Heart sport weight #3)
- yarn needle
- medium sized button
ROUND 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook three times. Sc once in each of next 12 sts. Sc in last st three times. (You will now be working on the opposite side of the foundation chain to create a “round”.) Sc once in each remaining ch. (30 sts) Join.
ROUND 2-4: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st, and in each st around (30 sts) Join. – Do this step three times. Before moving onto the next round, weave in your loose end. Your case should be right side out.
ROUND 5: Ch 1, turn, sc in same st and next 21 sts. At this point, when you lay your piece flat, you will see you have come around the corner five sts. Count backward 10 sc from your hook and place a sl st through that 10th sc to make your first pocket. Sc in next 5 sts. On the opposite side of your work, you will count 5 sc, and place a sl st through the 5th sc to make your second pocket. Sc in next 3 sts. Join to top of first sc from that row. You should have 3 equal pockets.
ROUND 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 4 sts, sk next st (this is the sl st from the previous row which will not count as a st in our work). Sc in next 5 sts, sk next st (again, that’s our sl st from before). Sc in next 10 sts (the last place you make a st will look funny, because we put our sl st through it previously. You’ll begin your next sc just on the other side of that sl st). Sc in next 5 sts. Jump over that sl st like we did before. Sc in next 6 sts. Join.
ROUND 7-14: Repeat round 5 and 6.
ROUND 15: Sc in each st around. Join.
The base of the case is finished. You will now be working on the flap. This is customizable. You can alter this any way you like. I chose just a simple button closure.
ROW 1: Sl st in next st. Ch 1, turn, sc in same st and next 14 sts (15 sts)
ROW 2–10: Sc in each st across (15 sts)
ROW 11: Sc2tog, sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog. (13 sts)
ROW 12: Sc2tog, sc in next 9, sc2tog (11 sts)
ROW 13: Sc2tog, sc in next 7, sc2tog (9sts)
ROW 14: Sc2tog, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 3 sts, sc in next st, s2tog (7 sts)
ROW 15: Sc2tog, sc 3 in ch3 space, sc2tog (5 sts). Finish off and weave in loose end.
From here, you will put your bottles inside and measure how far down you need to sew your button on. There’s no magic position here since yarn type, weight, and tension can alter placement.